Monday, September 4, 2006

THE ILIAD - OUR FINAL POST




We did it!

After 91 days, 23 countries, 76 cities and 23,458km (half the circumference of the globe at the equator) we are back in Paris and ready to fly to Greece, having completed our Europe 2006 itinerary, exactly as planned and without incident!!!

Our total distance travelled includes 2,440km by rail and 720km by ship and 760km by foot!

We also "stopped over" in a further 40 cities/towns. Now we think we know how Ulysses must have felt after completing his epic journey as described in Homer's Iliad!!! We could not have done it without our brave little car - C3PO (first photo), who bore the brunt of most of the kilometers (second photo).

Here is a summary of the best and worst of out trip:
HOTEL VALUE: best in Albufeira, Portugal and worst in Amboise, France.
HOTEL FEATURES: best equipped was in Stockholm, Sweden and worst in Trieste, Italy.
HOTEL COST: cheapest was in Tallin, Estonia and most expensive was in St Petersberg, Russia.
RESTAURANT: best was La Gloria De Montana in Madrid, Spain and worst was who cares in Albufeira, Portugal.
DISH: best was the Valencian Paella in Valencia, Spain and worst was the Mixed Seafood Grill in Albufeira, Portugal.
CITY: best was Barcelona, Spain and worst Oporto, Portugal.
TOWN: best was Clisson, France and worst Aranjuez, Spain.
TOURIST SITE: best was The Prado in Madrid, Spain and worst was the Royal Palace in Aranjuez, Spain.
MEMORABLE STAY: best was Monterossa Al Mare, Italy and worst was Amboise, France.
MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE: best was the up close and personal tour and tasting of the Eric Garreau winery with Eric Garreau and worst was trying to find a hotel in Madrid.
HOTEL BREAKFAST: best was in Warsaw, Poland and worst was in Ljubljana, Slovenia.
EFFORT TO VISIT: easiest city to visit was Berlin, Germany and hardest was Moscow, Russia.

This officially concludes "In Search Of Euro-Trash 2006"!!! This is the last blog post as there will be no coverage of our time in Greece. John is back in Sydney on 10 September 2006 and Paul returns on 4 October 2006.

CONTACT IN GREECE: Paul can be contacted on his mobile and email but he will have limited access to email. John will NOT have mobile and NOT have email access. If you need to contact John, please call him at his relatives on +30 26960 34015. If you cannot speak Greek just ask for "Yianis Golfinopoulos apo Afstralia"! Best time to call is between 8-9am Greek time (4-5pm Ozzie time).

We would like to thank our fans and viewing public for their comments and patronage - we hoped you enjoyed the show! But wait - that's not all. Once we get back and coming to you hopefully in December 2006 is our full length feature documentary film and best of the best photo slide show - stay tuned for details via email! We will also announce the winner of "what is Paul looking for" and answer all your questions, especially "who took all the John and Paul photos"!

Farewell Europe 2006!

Sunday, September 3, 2006

"I'm Drinking Stars"


So said Dom Perignon on discovering the wonders of Champagne!

We visited Moet & Chandon in the French town of Epernay where we toured their 17.5 miles of underground chalk cellars and sampled some of their awesome produce.

Moet was founded in 1743 by Claude Moet and the name changed to its current when the company's reins were handed over to son-in-law Pierre-Gabriel Chandon in 1832.

Moet operates 800 hectares of vineyards, cultivated and maintained by 250 winegrowers. A single hectare requires more than 750 hours of meticulous care. Champagne is made with the blending of three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The bottles are then aged in their massive chalk cellars.

Needless to say that John was in heaven and had to be dragged out!

Friday, August 11, 2006

Chocolate Melting Pot



Brussels (pop 992,000, founded 11th century) is a melting pot of cultures. Apart from the age old rivalry between the Dutch based Flemish and French based Walloons, we noticed many Africans (Belgian colony of Congo), Turkish and Lebanese. Belgium is one third the size of Greece (30,000 sq km) with the same population of 10.2 million. Brussels claims that it invented "pomme frites" to go with its mussels and has the best beer and chocolates in the world! It certainly has the grandest plaza we have seen in Europe (first two photos)! The Manneken Pis (third photo) now has a girlfriend! She is called "Jeanneken Pis" and yes, she is also releaving herself (European Union Laws would not allow us to broadcast photos)! Paul and I have been to Brussels before and new sites we saw on this occasion included: the only operating brewery in Brussels (this beer is made the traditional way - open air fermentation), the chocolate musuem (saw how pralines are made, PS: the Belgians have confirmed that white chocolate is not really chocolate but cocoa butter!), the 1857 "Neuhaus" chocolate shop (invented the praline or filled chocolate) and the Cathedral of Sts Michel & Gudule (where the old monarchs are buried and the official parish of the Belgian Royal Family). Total distance travelled so far: 19,058km.

Tuesday, August 8, 2006

Big




Berlin is big. It has 3.5 million people living in an area, almost six times the size of Paris! This is because it is spread out, has lots of park land and more houses rather than apartments. A very extensive above ground rail, below ground rail, tram and bus system makes it seem much much smaller. Germany's 83 million people are also more evenly spread throughout over its 356,866 square kilometers (two thirds France).

Since Paul and I were last here in 1995 and 1993, much has changed. Lots of new buildings and sites. We visited the huge 28 million euro, "concrete block maze" Holocaust museum, opened in May 2005, just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate and ironically, next to the site of Hitler's lost bunker! It summarises every single Nazi death camp and Jewish memorial in WWII in all of Europe. Also new is the Berlin Guggenhaim (very disappointing - only one exhibit at a time in a small building).

Other older sites, not visited last time include: Oranienburger Strasse (Jewish Quarter, fall of cafes), Maassen Strasse and Nollendorf Platz (the Oxford Street and Taylor Square of Berlin with flashy Indian and Thai restaurants) and Gendarmenmarkt Platz (plaza with classic concert hall and music museum).

Rebuilt or cleaned sites since last time include: Reistag (Parliament), Brandenberg Gate (first photo), Potsdamer Platz (CBD with fabulous new Sony Centre) and Alexander Platz (new apartments, cleaned red town hall).

Classics include Kurfurstendamm (ritzy shopping boulevard with old and new bell towers at its end - second photo) and the fabulous Berliner Dom (protestant Cathedral, third photo). Overall, the Berliners were: very friendly, happy to speak in English, love having long breakfasts (they are much bigger and are available all day) and still have coffee and cake in the arvo!

Monday, August 7, 2006

Poles Apart



Gdansk (pop 481,000, 4th largest city in Poland, founded 1308AD) has an Old Town which is "poles apart" from Warsaw and even Krakow! Just look at the first photo. What a surprise for a working class port town on the Baltic. The Old Town is actually the "New Town" since the real Old Town was 90% destroyed in 1945 and is currently being re-built. The first photo shows the breathtaking "Dlugi Targ" the main town square, full of 14 and 15th century apartments and the Town Hall. Close by is the giant 14th century St Mary's Cathedral (with observation bell tower rising 405 steps or 124m). Nearby is the 1220AD St Katherine's and the 1350AD flour mill which produced 200 tons per day.

Gdansk is home to the Solidarity Movement, lead by Lech Walesa, which in 1980 precipitated events which lead to the fall of communism in Russia in 1997. Lech went on to become the first President of the 1990 independent Republic of Poland. A monument was erected in honour of this movement and all dock workers who died in violent clashes with the Soviet Government at the time.

Westerplatte is a seaside penisula approx 6km from the Old Town where WWII started and finished! On 1 Spetemeber 1939, a German Ship fired on this place and it was defended by these twelve for one week until they ran out of food!

Approx 70km from Gdansk, is the town of Malbork which is home to a 13th century red brick castle, the largest in the world (second photo). Paul and I also went to "Hel and back"!!! Hel is a seaside fishing town, 97km from Gdansk on a very thin 37km long peninsula which at its narrowest is only 200m so that the Baltic Sea can be seen through both sides of your car!!! Sad thing is that all of Poland spends "summer" here and it is extremely crowded with mostly overcast days, tops of 22deg and grey sand! If only they saw Queensland!

Finally Gdansk was the place where Paul and I ate Wild Boar Dumplings (a local specialty) - they were better than the smoked pigs ears we crunched on in Vilnius in Lithuania the previous night! Distance travelled so far: 17,780km.

Saturday, August 5, 2006

Spanish Of The Baltics




The Lithuanians think of themselves as the "Spanish of the Baltics" because they see themselves as loud, red blooded and always celebrating, which they associate with the Spanish. Paul and I were unable to confirm this but we did consult our usual musuem experts to ask about their origins. The musuem personnel agreed that Lithuanians are more like the Latvians than Estonians but felt their language was more like Russian (with some Swedish) than Germanic (like Lativian). Lithuania (pop 3.6 million) covers 65,200 square kilometers, same as Latvia (half of Greece). Like Poland, the country disappeared officially from maps of Europe in the early 1900's and like Latvia and Estonia was occupied by Russia and became independent in 1991. Unlike its fellow Baltics, ethnic Lithuanians comprise a major 82% of the population. Lithuania is very flat with 4,000 lakes and 470 different types of butterfly!!!

The UNESCO protected capital, Vilnius (pop 600,000), founded 1321, has the largest old town in Europe (top photo, taken from the Gediman Tower) and before WWII had 100,000 jews (out of a total pop of 230,000) and 105 synagogues. The Nazis exterminated 100,000 (70,000 jews) in a death camp in Panerai (10km from Vilnius) where there is now an outdoor memorial (bottom photo). Only one synagogue now remains.

Vilnius old town is very well laid out and is the home of the unusual and rare "Baroque" styled Russian Orthodox Churches. We visited two in town and the monastery of the Holy Spirit which contains the preserved relics of three martyrs: Sts Anthony, Joann and Eustachius. Other city sites visited include: the 1579 University, 1363 Gates of Dawn (preserved city gate with miraculous Catholic icon of the Virgin housed in a chapel above the gate), 1615 St Casimirs Baroque Church, 1581 St Annes Gothic Church and the Three White Crosses on a hill at the start of the old town, where 3 monks were crucified in the 17th century.

Finally we visited the 17th century castle at Trakai (28km from city, second photo) where most of the cities newlyweds take their wedding photos (we saw more than 10 brides that day!). Distance travelled so far: 16,795km.

Friday, August 4, 2006

The Mystery Continues



Like Estonia, Latvia (pop 2.4 million, area 64,600 square kilometers or half Greece) is unsure of its origins. The musuem staff in UNESCO protected Riga believe that they are from Hungarian related tribes in Ukraine with some connections to the Danish. The Latvian language is of Germanic origin. This means Estonians and Finnish share common roots and language whilst the Latvians and Lithuanians share their roots and language. There are also similarities. Latvia was also occupied by Nazi Germany and Russia with independence in 1991. Riga (pop 790,00) is a very classic European city, whose old town is 40% Art Noveau architecture. The top photo shows the central "Ratsaukums" plaza with the 1344 House of Blackheads dominating (rebuilt in 2001 to celebrate the city's 800th birthday. The bottom photo shows the old city looking towards the Daugava river.

Other sites visited include: 1211 Dome Cathedral (largest Baltic Church), 1209 St Peters Lutheran church (with 123m tower), Presidents residence (old castle) and the 1698 Swedish Gate. Whilst the central old town is very classic the scene quickly deteriorates as you move into the suburbs - lots of traffic, grubby streets and buildings. Stalls and outdoor markets are quickly being replaced by modern malls. Distance travelled so far: 16,443km.

Thursday, August 3, 2006

Magical Country With Mysterious Origins



Even the Estonian Musuem staff do not know where Estonians came from... quoting them: "it is a big mystery but we think we are descendant from the Haseatic Tribes of Siberia". There you have it. Estonia (pop 1.4 million) covering only 45,000 square kilometers ( a third of Greece) is not sure of its origins. What they can tell us is that they are not Slavic and their language is very close to Finnish! One thing is for sure, Estonia has had a turbulent history. They have been occupied by Germany, Russia, Denmark and even Sweden. No wonder they are confused about origins!

Tallinn (pop 371,000) is a UNESCO protected tourist haven. A magical place of cosy cobbledstone streets, great coffee and very very cheap eating. St Olaf's church has a 159m tall bell tower (first photo shows view of old town from tower) that made it the tallest structure in the world in the early 13th century! "Toompea" is the elevated part of the old town containing the old castle, Orthodox Nevsky Cathedral and now houses the parliament of Estonia since independence in 1991 (second photo shows view of the lower old town from Toompea). The main square "Raekoja Plats" is a statistitians wonderland (bottom photo): it contains the world's oldest pharmacy, town hall and even the highest toilet up to the early 1900's (77m high in the town hall tower). The best thing about Estonia and Tallinn is the willingness of locals to help tourists, high use of English, small walkable sites and yes, the 10-15AUD meals (with beer)!!! Distance travelled so far: 16,109km (Total distance covered in Russia by train: 2,440km).

Tuesday, August 1, 2006

Orthodox Saint Petersburg





St Petersburg also has a large share of the rich Russian Orthodox heritage. A highlight for us was attending the Sunday Liturgy (mass) at the 1900AD Cathedral of St John of Kronstadt which contains his relics and is part of the convent he founded (first photo). St John is a very popular Russian Saint and one that spent a lot of time advising youth.

St Petersburg has a large Orthodox cemetery hidden in a thick forest, only 8km from the centre. In its centre is a small chapel housing the relics of St Xenia (second photo) - we were lucky to be annointed with oil blessed on her tomb. We also visited the 1789 Cathedral of St Price Vladimir who, on behalf of the Tsar, "selected" Orthodoxy as the official christian religion for Russia in 988 (photo three). Our next stop was the Alexander Nevsky Monastery, founded in 1713 by the Prince of the same name to commemorate the victory of the Russians in the Neva battle of 1240. This monastery also contains the Tikhvinskoe Cemetery, founded 1823 with 147 graves of the most well-known musicians, artists, scientists and politians of the city and Russia, including: Tchaikosvsky (bottom photo), Dostoevski (author) and Ivanov (grand master artist with works in Hermitage).

Many of Russia's monasteries and churches were closed down by the communist regime (mainly in the thirties) and used as orphanages, hospitals or left to deteriorate. Many were re-opened in the mid fifities and early eighties and now there is extensive rennovations in progress to restore them. It is apparent to Paul and I (especially when we visited the Smolensky Cathedral which is now a concert hall) that some "deal making" needed to happen to get the more important churches back to the Russian Orthodox Church (especially those founded by Saints).

We farewell a grand city and Russia. Our summation is that Russia is like someone who has awakened from a long sleep. There is still a lot of work to do especially to update aging infrastructure and be better prepared for tourism but the encouraging news is that there are visible signs that change is happening. Russia will be an even greater place to visit in 10 years time!

The Paris of Russia





St Petersburg is the "Paris" of Russia: essentially built by Peter The Great in 1703 as a "royal city" and it shows! Classic French-Baroque buildings downtown but as you step back into suburbia the "classic" remains but the dirt creeps in, big time! Lets say it is the "grubby" Paris of Russia. St Petersburg has almost 5 million people, half the population of Moscow and Europe's fourth most populous city. It is built on 44 islands and 55 canals at the end of the Baltic Sea.

The first photo shows its greatest prize - the Hermitage. It is one of the world's largest art musuems with just over 3 million pieces housed in the former sumptious, dripping with gold Winter Palace of Peter The Great (1672-1725). Peter's wife the "whole lot of woman" Catherine The Great started this art collection with 255 pieces in 1764. The Hermitage is absolutely grand and ornate. The whole thing is like having a Louvre inside Versailles or Prado inside Palacio. Paul and I spent 4 hours covering this beast. Apart from the actual rooms, furniture, sculptures there are paintings from all the grand masters of Europe. The Alexander Column in the first photo is the place where, on 7 November 1917, the Bolsheviks, lead by Lenin, seized power from the royals (Tsar Nicholas II) and started communist Russia (which fell in 1997). The second shows one of the rooms inside the Hermitage (Palace).

The other great site of the city is the Peter and Paul Fortress, which Peter The Great founded as the original city in 1703 (photo two). Peter then built the Peter and Paul Cathedral in 1733 (photo three) which now houses his grave, his wife's Catherine and most of the Russian royalty which spanned 1613 (Mikeil Romanov) to 1917 (Tsar Nicholas II). The other site of note is the Cathedral of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood (bottom photo), built in 1881 on the spot where Tsar Alexei II was murdered - hence the name. The amazing thing about this church is that the entire interior is covered in icons made entirely of mosaic glass - took 32 artists 12 years to complete. Other sites visted: 1858 St Issac's Cathedral with its impressive 260 step view and 100kg of gold on its dome, Our Lady of Kazan Cathedral containing the body of the General who defeated Napoleon in 1812 and the Dostoevsky House and Musuem.

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Orthodox Moscow





Orthodoxy has been undergoing a huge revival since communism fell in 1997. It is roughly estimated that approx 27 million Orthodox Christians were persecuted and killed in the former USSR between the 1917 Lenin Bolshevick Revolution to the middle of the cold war in the late fifties. Many monasteries were closed but are now open, back with the faithful and undergoing restoration.

We visited four major monastic centres in Moscow. The first photo shows the Holy Trinity St Sergius Monastery in Sergei Posad (pop 200,000, approx 70km from Moscow). This monastery was founded by St Sergius of Radonezh in 1337 and is the most visited by Russians and Orthodox abroad. It consists of several churches which contain the relics of many saints that we saw: St Sergius, St Maximus the Greek, St Moscovitz, St Filaret and St Innokenty. The second photo is typical of Russian Orthodox Iconostasis (icon screen in front of alter) - lots of gold, lots of detail, lots of work! The third photo shows the main cathedral and bell tower of UNSECO protected Novodevichy Monastery, approx 5km south west of the Kremlin: built in 1525 by Grand Duke Vasilli II in thanksgiving of Russia's defence of Smolensk (a city near Poland) from the Polish. Just next to Novodichy is a monastery where all the rich and famous of Moscow and Russia (ministers, actors, academics etc) are buried - we visited the grave of the late wife (Raica) of former President Gorbachev. The fourth photo shows the Cathedral of the Seventh Ecumenical Council in the St Daniel (Danilovsky) Monastery: the oldest in Moscow, approx 6km south of the Kremlin, founded by Prince Daniel of Moscow in 1303, closed by the communists in 1930, handed back to the Church in 1988 and now the adminstrative centre and residence of the Russian Orthodox Partriarchate headed by Alexei II. We were lucky to be shown around by Fr Iosef and venerated the relics of St Daniel in the church in the photo and those of St Georgy, another martyr of that period. The bottom photo shows the large all-male Donski Monastery, approx 7km south of the Kremlin, founded in 1591 by St Tychon (whose relics we visited) and is also protected by the Russian Army as the site which protected Moscow from Mogol invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries (hence the tanks in the photo!).

We noticed many Russian youths (twenty to thirty) coming to light candles in the city churches and yes, the Russian Orthodox Priests are still awesome 7 foot giants with huge beards! The chanting is as captivating as ever and the services as long as ever!

Thursday, July 27, 2006

I see Red





STOP PRESS: please note that the ABBA blog ("We Want ABBA") has been updated.

Moscow is big. Russia is bigger. We are overwhelmed. Our feet hurt. Paul bought new sneakers. Even without its former USSR states, Russia covers 17 million square kilometers (Australia covers 10 million). Moscow now has almost 10 million people and is officially Europe's largest city (in population).

First thing that hits you about Russia and Moscow is how imperial it is, ie, it still has big traces of red! The building in the first photo is actually our hotel (we stayed on floor 28 out of 29), converted from one of many "Stalin Scyscrapers" that dot the city.

Red Square is.. well... red! In the second photo you have the red walls of the 1150AD Kremlin (walled city of the old and new government) all around you, Lenin's red and black marble mausoleum (we waited 2.5hrs to see the preserved Lenin in a glass coffin - he looks like wax and has a golden "colonel sanders" beard!!!) and red with every other colour onion domes of 1561AD St Basil's (built by crazy Tsar Ivan The Terrible to "show off" and not actually a real Orthodox Church!). In the third photo is the other side of red square with the rest of the Kremlin, the red 1883AD Russian Historical Musuem and the not so red GAM old markets building that now houses the ritziest capitalist shopping centre in the city. The fourth photo shows you only part of the interior of the Kremlin which houses palaces (Old Tsars and Putin's house), the Senate, the 1489AD Annunciation Cathedral, the 1508AD Archangel Cathedral, the 1511AD Dormition Cathedral, three other churches, the magnificent Armory Musuem (collections of Russian antiquities from the royal Tsar "glory box"), the fabulous Diamond Fund (or Treasury, containing several kilos of diamonds, the world's largest flat diamond, even more kilos of gold and the largest chuck of platinum in the world) and even the largest bell in the world (202 tons and never rung). The Kremlin could easily take three days to visit and we did it in one and almost collapsed!

The Moscow subway is its strength. You never wait more than one minute for a train! It is always full of people. The trains are preshistoric but travel at warp speed! The metro has highly decorated stations (like a musuem, with marble, mosaics of Lenin, bronze statues of happy comrades, stained glass, art deco chandeliers, two have won USA New York architecture prizes). The folks in the country are generally friendlier - we met many "baboushkas" (grannies), who helped us out more than the city people!

The Russians in Moscow are exactly like the Greeks in the 70's and 80's: they cannot speak English, do not like tourists, use their heads to show you directions, grunt to speak, drive crappy cars (Russian built Ladas) with no seatbelts, taxis try to rip you off, public servants take breaks and keep you waiting and cars do not stop at the pedestrian crossing (there is only one in Moscow!).

We also visited Victory Park (a huge outdoor avenue, plaza, tower and semi-circular museum) commemorating Russia's victory over the French in 1812 and the Germans in 1945. The highlight for us was watching the Bolshoi Ballet of Tchaikovski's "Sleeping Beauty" - what a show!

The other aspect of Russia is its monasteries and churches - look at the next blog.

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Land of Lakes and Islands


On the night of 22 July, our car C3PO and ourselves slept overnight (13 hours) on the massive 2500 person, Finnish "Viking Line" ship from Stockholm to Turku (top photo, Finland's oldest city, 750 years old!). From Turku we drove to Finland's capital Hellsinki (pop 560,000, founded 1550AD). Finland is 338,000 sq km (7th largest European country, two thirds France) with only 5.2 million people. It has 187, 888 lakes, 98,050 islands, is the official home of Santa Claus, was founded by the Swedes in 1155AD, became an independent republic in 1917, joined the EU in 1995 and adopted the Euro in 1999. The Fins are generally blond and blue-eyed and it takes time to get to know them. Their English is good, prices are expensive but cheapest amongst the Scandinavian countries. Helsinki is more imperial but the Fins do not like Russia and avoid visiting. Sites we visited included: the 1952 Olympic Stadium, the 19th century white and gold Lutheran City Cathedral, the largest Western European Upenski Orthodox Church (only 2% of the pop are Orthodox), the Esplanadi (cafe lined boulevard), outdoor harbourside markets and a harbour cruise to the UNESCO protected Swedish built, 1748AD fortress on the island of Suomenlinna. Naturally, all the lifts and elevators that we used in Finland were KONE! Finland is also home to Nokia. We left our little car at 16,080km in Hellsinki for a 9 day rest as we headed to Moscow on the Russian "Tolstoy" train!!!

Amazing Find



Here is an amazing find! This woman is wearing Agnetha's sunglasses! Yes, the very same ones Agnetha wore on tour to Australia with ABBA. We met her at Herman's, an amazing all-you-can-eat vego place with views of the Old Town in Stockholm.

She refused to sell them to us!

Thursday, July 20, 2006

We Want ABBA (updated)






WE WANT ABBA! WE WANT ABBA! WE WANT ABBA!

Where is Abba in Stockholm? Much to our absolute amazement and disgust, there is no clear, obvious outward sign that Abba ever existed in Stockholm. There are no tours, no special museums, no cheezey Hollywood style tours of where they lived, worked or played, no anything! Instead, we had to extract details from online websites from Australia and Holland (No 1 and 2 fan countries). Why is Sweden ashamed of their biggest economic export ever? The top photo is the only public display of Abba in the city and it is pathetic! It is a small room inside the Swedish Music Musuem but it does display one of Benny´s original pianos (which we touched and licked!!!). The second photo is our major discovery! It is the archipelago island of Viggso, 90min boat ride from Stockholm, where Benny and Bjorn wrote the majority of all Abba songs in a little cabin (we have video footage of the cabin)! It is also the place where Bjorn still lives! John was ready to swim to the island when the 12deg water stood between him and a heart attack! The third photo shows the "Abbey Road" of Abba - it is the original Polar Music recording studio where Abba recorded most of their songs (it is now a legal office). The fourth photo is the former house of Stig Anderson, Abba´s manager and inventor of the word "ABBA". The fifth photo shows Stig´s grave, roughly 2km from his house and both are on the island of Djurgarden (he died in 1997, aged 66 of smoking and drinking). The last photo shows us having coffee at Benny Anderssen´s! It is the cafe and hotel that Benny owns and opened in 2003. According to our investigations, Bjorn and Benny still live in Stockholm, Agnetha married her stalker and lives on a lake in southern Sweden and Frida in Switzerland. Why does Sweden and indeed Stockholm not put on a more "public" display of the world´s most favourite group since the Beatles???

STOP PRESS: the last photo (just added 26JUL) is the former admin headquaters and factory of Polar Music International, the record company that Stig used to actually press vinyl for ABBA's records in Europe.